Nestled in the heart of Albania, Berat is a city that perfectly encapsulates the country’s rich history, stunning architecture, and vibrant culture. It is known as the “City of a Thousand Windows” due to its distinctive Ottoman-era houses with large, closely set windows. Beyond its historical allure, Berat is also a gateway to some of Albania’s finest wineries and olive groves, offering visitors a unique taste of the region’s agricultural traditions. Food, wine, hospitality, history, and tradition are all found in this charming city.
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Berat is one of Albania’s oldest cities, with a history that dates back over 2,400 years. As you wander through the cobblestone streets, you’ll find yourself transported back in time. The city is divided into three parts: Gorica, Mangalem, and the castle area known as Kalaja. Each area offers a different perspective of Berat’s architectural and cultural heritage. The castle perched high on a hill overlooking the Osum River offers stunning panoramic views of the city below. The castle complex houses Byzantine churches and the Onufri National Museum, which showcases the works of the famous Albanian icon painter Onufri.
Hotels and restaurants line the streets among residences within the castle walls. Below are the houses lining the side of the hill, which makes up a thousand windows mentioned before. At the lower level, which is quite steep to walk down to, are shops, a market area, and a pedestrian area. Historical buildings and charming streets make walking around Berat a fabulous experience.
It’s best in the autumn when there are fewer tourists around and the weather is much nicer. We came in the summer and autumn of 2023 and loved it both times! You can always take a taxi down to the town center or up to the castle if the walk is too rough.
The Wine Culture of Berat
Berat is surrounded by fertile lands that have been used for grape cultivation for centuries. The Mediterranean climate, with its hot summers and mild winters, creates ideal conditions for growing a variety of grape types, which are used to produce some of Albania’s most exquisite wines. A visit to Berat wouldn’t be complete without exploring its nearby wineries.
Recommended Wineries to Visit
- Çobo Winery: Located just a short drive from Berat, Çobo Winery is one of the most renowned in the region. The winery has been in the Çobo family for generations. Their signature wine, E Bukura e Beratit, a dry white, is a must-try.
- Nurellari Winery: Situated in the picturesque village of Fushë Peshtan. They offer a unique experience for wine lovers. It’s a bit of a distance away, but they also have a guest house so staying there would be amazing. The winery is known for its dedication to organic farming practices, producing eco-friendly and delicious wines. The Nurellari family is deeply passionate about their craft, and a visit to their winery includes a tour of the vineyards, a walk through the cellars, and, of course, a tasting of their best wines.
- Luani Winery: Very close by is Luani Winery, another fantastic destination for wine enthusiasts. The winery offers a wide range of wines, from robust reds to crisp whites, all made from grapes grown in its vineyards.
- Kantina Edoni: has a lovely estate with a restaurant and wine-tasting experience. We tried several wines and had a nice bite to eat while there.
The Olive Culture in Berat
Beyond wine, Berat is also known for its olive groves, which have been a cornerstone of the region’s agriculture for centuries. The olive trees that dot the landscape around Berat are not only beautiful to look at but are also a testament to the area’s rich agricultural heritage. A million olive trees line the hills around Berat. The sight is beautiful!
Olive trees have been cultivated in Berat for over 2,000 years, and the methods used to grow and harvest them have changed little over the centuries. Berat’s olive groves are a mix of ancient trees, some over a thousand years old and younger, more productive varieties.
Olives grown in Berat are primarily used to produce high-quality olive oil, a local cuisine staple. The harvesting process occurs in late autumn when the olives are at their peak ripeness. The olives are picked and then pressed right away, which helps preserve the oil’s quality.
Once harvested, the olives are taken to local mills- called fabrique, where they are pressed to extract the oil. Cold pressing is the traditional method of olive oil production and is preferred because it preserves the oil’s flavor and nutritional properties. The result is a rich, golden-green olive oil highly prized for its flavor and health benefits.
In Berat, olive oil is more than just a cooking ingredient; it’s an integral part of the region’s culture and history. Many families in Berat still produce their olive oil using traditional methods passed down through generations. Koroneki olives are the most preferred in the region.
In the summer of 2023, we met a fabrique owner, a man from Berat; he was raised and spent most of his life working in the UK. He saved his money and then invested in a fabrique, an olive oil manufacturer. He invested in the best quality cold pressing machines and planted hundreds of thousands of trees for olive oil production.
He believes in helping his community with this business. He assists local farmers in pressing their olives and finds people to buy from them so the community can thrive. We returned to see his family and purchased olive oil in late October. Their olive oil is delicious!
What to eat
Our favorite restaurant was Antipatrea Traditional Restaurant & Cocktails. We loved the food in 2023, but I understand that the quality may have gone down due to an overload of tourism, so be sure to check reviews when you come to visit.
Watermelon tomatoes are not just a greenish light pink but also taste slightly of watermelon. They are a fresh summery tomato that could be the entire salad alone. This farm-fresh salad also includes peppers and cucumbers; of course, it’s topped with sliced fresh cheese.
Vienez
Called a wedding dinner, the rolled lamb is filled with cheese and walnuts and then fried. It’s our favorite!
Okra, small okra is roasted with peppers and onions to make a delicious side dish.
Tavë Kosi is a lamb dish prepared in a tall baking pan with yogurt and rice. It is amazing, and I highly recommend it with a glass of red wine.
Kanelon a crepe filled with cheese and vegetables and topped with tomato sauce and cheese
Fërgesë is roasted red peppers and fresh cheese in a clay pot.
Mbrica restaurant is for vegetarian Albanian-style moussaka, good red wine, and an amazing view. Everything else was just ok.
Temi Albanian Food for delicious desserts and lovely service
Restorant Frank Make sure to try Yufka Chicken it’s amazing!
Our favorite dog-friendly hotel in Berat was once part of the castle. Berati Castle Hotel is in the castle, and my oh my, is it beautiful! It offers the best service, a great breakfast, and fabulous rooms. It also has excellent AC.
If you are flying into Albania, you must rent a car for optimal fun exploring. Rent a car with the Booking.com link.
Berat is more than just a historical city; it is a living, breathing testament to Albania’s rich agricultural traditions. Whether you are strolling through its ancient streets, sipping on a glass of locally produced wine, or tasting freshly pressed olive oil, you will find that Berat offers a travel experience that is both enriching and unforgettable. So, when you plan your next trip to Albania, make sure that Berat is at the top of your list and be sure to take some wine home with you. If you want olive oil, send me a message on Instagram, and I’ll try to connect you to some. It’s not easy to come by since most is shipped away, served at restaurants, or sold mixed at gift shops. Subscribe for more travel inspiration, find us on social media, and have a lovely day.
