Komiža

Komiža is a charming stone brick town with a fishing history on the island Vis. This Croatian town has amazing places to swim, fantastic restaurants and lovely stone streets to explore. The town offers: Adriatic blue waters, pebble beaches, local wines, tours of the island Vis and the Blue Cave.

In 2019 a friend from Zagreb insisted that I see the Croatian island Vis. When I planned my 2020 summer in Split I organized a visit to Vis. July 2020 my boyfriend and I took the Jadrolinija ferry from the main port in Split for the 2.5-hour ferry ride to Vis. The cost each way was 45 Kuna which is about $7.00. Many people take their cars too, but that’s about 100 Euro for the car. Once we pulled into the Vis port we went for a taxi to the town Komiža, but the cost was 200 Kuna and the bus that was waiting was only 20 Kuna so we opted for the bus. The bus is no dogs allowed, but we had a lenient driver. On our return trip we had to take the taxi back because the driver did not want to allow Onawa on the bus even if she was in a bag.

This charming stone city was once the home of the largest fishing industry on the Adriatic. Komiža’s shipping fleet included the oldest known regatta on the Mediterranean with Falkuša boats organized to the distant islands of Palagruža.

Ruins of the fishing industry can be found at the converted lobster fishery which now houses three spectacular restaurants. We tried two of them, Konoba Barba has a terrace with a view of the harbor on the upper level. Their fresh ingredients, fantastic views and exceptional service make this restaurant a favorite for a romantic dinner, or group event. The Konoba Jastožera is on the lower level next to the water, with a canal through the restaurant where lobsters are kept in traps. The restaurant traps their own lobsters which are similar to Florida rock lobsters. The cuttlefish risotto was the best I’ve had and the lobsters were prepared perfectly, it was a delicious dinner in a really cool environment.

Komiža’s old stone buildings line narrow alley ways for walking. One evening we followed the sound of live music into a small courtyard where a wine tasting event was being hosted. Vis wine makers featured their specialties for one flat rate of 30 Kuna, we had a glass and unlimited wine to try. We chose our favorites and decided to see some wineries on a scooter one of the days we were visiting.

Harbor facing restaurants and café bars line the walkways on both sides of the town. From the center of town to the right, or the left will lead to pebble beaches with perfect blue water for swimming. When walking right of the center there is one sandy beach, but it’s always filled with children, walking past the sandy beach and continuing past the dive center will lead to the cliffs which hang over the pebble beach. The cliffs and shaggy pine trees shade the beach from the sun. On the other side of town near the Lunatic Café the waters are deeper and views are amazing. There is a camp ground with amazing views on the hill above the Lunatic Café.

We spent a day with Alternatura to tour the Blue Cave, Green Cave, Blue Lagoon, Stiniva beach and some cool coves.

Tips:

Bring hiking shoes because there are some great hiking trails, make sure to bring enough water, the trails aren’t covered in trees.

Favorite cafes:

Fabrika: the service is terrible, but the atmosphere and ice coffee are fantastic. The food looks good too, but there are so many other awesome places to eat.

Slaticarnica Cukar: my new friend had his birthday on Vis and this café made the cake. I reached out to them the week before coming to request a special birthday cake with his favorite flavors. It was fantastic! This café has some great treats and a tasty ice coffee. I was happy that they have almond milk, sometimes.

Walk to the church on the hill before sunset, it’s beautiful and the bells are lovely

If you have a dog be prepared to pay 200 Kuna each way from the port. The city is dog friendly, but many of the beaches are not dog friendly.